Terrible Tilly: The Lonely Beacon That Defied Hell Itself
Life at the Desolate Outpost
The tragedy weighed heavily on the workers, but it proved the necessity of the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. Now it was time to finish the job.
The Tillamook Rock Lighthouse cost $123,493 to build. Planning and construction took 575 days.
At midnight on January 21st, 1881, the five wicks of the oil lamp were lit. The night was illuminated with a beam that could be seen up to 22 miles out to sea.
A marvel of engineering, the new lighthouse was an immediate asset to mariners. Accidents plummeted as the wild Pacific coast was slowly tamed.
Life at Tillamook Rock was a constant challenge for the keepers. They served relatively short rotations of 24 days on and 21 days off.
The intense isolation, brutal storms, and uncomfortable living quarters were more than most could handle. Most keepers only served at the station for a few months.
In the early days, keepers had no way of communicating with the outside world. There wasn’t even a surfboat on the rock, and the men were completely on their own.
Ships could only deliver supplies when weather permitted. Deliveries and crew replacements were almost always delayed by a few days or even weeks.
Over the years, conditions on the rock gradually improved. In 1895, a telegraph line was established, followed by a telephone line in 1897.
War Against the Waves
Brutal storms were a part of life on the rock. A gale in January 1883 tore holes in the iron roof of the foghorn house.
Another storm in December 1886 ripped half a ton of concrete filling from the foundation and threw it into the station. In December 1887, a massive storm sent a wall of water crashing over the lighthouse, smashing lantern panes.
In 1913, the station was bombarded for 15 hours by a storm so powerful that the keepers believed the station would be ripped from the rock.
But the most powerful storm endured came on October 21st, 1934. The station was battered by winds that reached over 109 miles per hour.
The storm was so powerful that it ripped boulders from the basalt rock and sent them hurtling toward the light. The lantern room was pummeled throughout the night.
When the weather finally cleared, the station was flooded with four feet of water. Most devastatingly, the original first-order Fresnel lens was shattered beyond repair.
With nearly every piece of equipment destroyed, second assistant keeper Henry Jenkins scrounged together parts to build a makeshift radio. They used it to alert the mainland of the damage.
Repairs cost $12,000 and weren’t complete until February 1935. The lens was replaced by an aero beacon and the lantern room windows were reinforced with metal mesh.
The End of an Era
While most hated Terrible Tilly, some found quiet solace in the work and isolation. It was a challenging job, but it was also a simple one free from the stress and pressure of life on land.
After 77 long years of service, Tillamook Rock was finally decommissioned on September 1st, 1957. The light had served its purpose well, saving countless lives.
It would be replaced by a modern whistle buoy, a simple piece of unmanned technology. The final keepers did their best to close up the lighthouse, and then it was abandoned.
On September 1st, 1957, before extinguishing the light for good, Terrible Tilly’s final keeper Oswald Allik left the following entry in the log book:
“Farewell Tillamook Rock light station. An era has ended. With this final entry and not without sentiment, I return thee to the elements.”
“You one of the most notorious and yet fascinating of the sea swept sentinels in the world. Long the friend of the tempest tossed mariner. Through howling gale, thick fog and driving rain your beacon has been a star of hope and your fog horn a voice of encouragement.”
“May the elements of nature be kind to you. For 77 years you have beamed your light across desolate acres of ocean. Keepers have come and gone. Men lived and died. But you were faithful to the end.”
“May your sunset years be good years. Your purpose is now only a symbol, but the lives you have saved and the service you have rendered are worthy of the highest respect. A protector of life and property to all. May old-timers, newcomers and travelers along the way pause from the shore in memory of your humanitarian role.”
Returned to Nature
Through the 1970s, the derelict station passed through a handful of private owners. But the costs of turning it into anything useful were prohibitive.
In 1980, a group of realtors purchased the station with an unusual idea. They would turn Terrible Tilly into what they called the Eternity at Sea Columbarium.
For $1,000 to $5,000, people could have their ashes interred at Tillamook Rock. Unsurprisingly, the strange endeavor never really caught traction.
Only about 30 people chose to have their remains flown out to the desolate rock. In 1999, the columbarium lost its license, and subsequent applications to have it reinstated were denied.
The rock was put up for sale once again in 2022. As of the making of this video, they have yet to find a buyer.
Tillamook Rock has returned to nature. Home to thousands of sea lions, seals, and seabirds, the rock is now part of the protected Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
All right crew. That’s all I’ve got.
“Until the next one, be nice to people.”
