Nobody understood why SHE filled her DRY POND with CATFISH — Until 1985 silenced them all…
The highway stretched out flat and empty ahead of us as I pulled away from the Texaco, the big truck rumbling past fields of young cotton that barely cleared the dirt. Sadi had turned her face back toward the window, and I could see in the mirror that she was still thinking about the men. She was eight, and eight is old enough to know when your mother has been treated like a fool. She didn’t say another word until we made the turn onto County Road 18, and then she only said, “How long until the fish get big?”
I had to clear my throat before I could answer. “About eighteen months. Maybe two years.”
She nodded, the math settling somewhere inside her. I wanted to tell her that the men on the bench weren’t evil, that they were just men who had never seen a pond come back from the dead. But I couldn’t tell her that, because it wasn’t true. They hadn’t laughed because they lacked information. They had laughed because I was a divorced woman doing something they had never seen done, and the laugh was a way of reminding each other that the world was still arranged the way it had always been arranged. I didn’t tell Sadi any of that. I just drove.
When we finally backed the trailer down to the edge of the pond, the afternoon sun had started its long lean across the Delta sky, and the water was still — so still you could see the reflection of the pecan trees in it like a second world underneath. I had not seen this pond full since before the drought, and I stood on the bank for a long moment while Sadi sat cross-legged in the grass and watched me. Four acres of water. Four acres of a second chance nobody believed in except me and the eight-year-old girl who had never once asked why her mother was buying catfish for a dead pond.
I pulled the tarp off the barrel. The fingerlings were small — three inches, dark gray with that slippery sheen channel cats have when they’re young and the world hasn’t yet taught them to be wary. I had read that you needed to release them slowly, let the temperatures equalize, so I dipped a bucket into the pond and started adding pond water to the barrel a little at a time. Sadi helped me count the minutes. She sat on the tailgate and called out when the second hand on my wristwatch hit the top of the dial, and I would add another bucket, and we would wait again. It took forty-five minutes. The men at the Texaco would have told me to just dump them in, get it over with, but the men at the Texaco didn’t have four hundred pounds of oxygenated life depending on them to get the pH right.
When the temperature matched, I carried the first bucket of fingerlings to the water and tipped it in. They scattered. You never see a fingerling linger. They disappear the instant they touch the pond, darting down into the darker water where the sunlight doesn’t reach, and you just have to trust they’re still alive down there. I carried bucket after bucket. Sadi carried one small bucket herself, walking very carefully, her tongue poking out the corner of her mouth the way it did when she was concentrating. By the time the barrel was empty, the backs of my arms ached and my shirt was stuck to my skin with sweat and pond water, and the sun was sitting right on the treeline.
I stood there with the empty barrel and looked at the water. I couldn’t see a single fish. That’s catfish for you. You do the work, and then you spend months not seeing the result. The only thing you have is the faith that the work counts, that the scales are tipping somewhere in the darkness where you can’t yet measure.
Sadi took my hand.
— Did they die?
— No, baby. They just found their new home.
— Will we see them?
— One day. When they’re big enough to come to the dock at feeding time.
That night, after Sadi was asleep, I sat at the kitchen table and opened the green spiral notebook for the first time. I wrote the date: March 14, 1983. I wrote the number of fingerlings released. I wrote the pond water temperature, the pH, the dissolved oxygen reading I had taken at sunrise, the exact weight of feed I had broadcast from the little wooden dock that morning before we left for Belzoni. I did not write about the men at the Texaco. The notebook was not for them. The notebook was for the fish.
The first thirty days nearly broke me.
I had read the Mississippi State Extension publications. I knew that fingerling mortality in the first month could run as high as fifteen percent even in commercial operations. But knowing a number and watching it happen are two different things. Every morning I walked the bank at five-thirty and found another handful of small gray bodies floating belly-up in the shallows, and every morning I netted them out and recorded the count in the green notebook, and every morning I felt a small cold fist clench around my stomach. I lost eleven percent of my stocking density in those first thirty days. That was within the normal range. I didn’t yet know it was normal. I thought I was failing.
Sadi would come out sometimes and sit on the dock while I ran the water tests — dissolved oxygen, ammonia, nitrites, pH. She learned to read the colorimetric strips by holding them up to the morning light. She was better at it than I was, her young eyes catching the subtle shifts in color that mine sometimes strained to see. We would kneel together on the dock, the wood still cool from the night, and she would say “six-point-two” or “seven-point-oh,” and I would write it down, and somewhere beneath us the surviving fingerlings were growing a quarter-inch a month on the commercial protein feed I broadcast twice a day, exactly three percent of their estimated body weight per feeding, exactly as the publications prescribed.
The feed cost money. Everything cost money. The aerator, the feed, the gas for the truck, the replacement parts for the paddlewheel. I had two thousand two hundred dollars left in the savings account after the fingerling purchase, and I watched that number dwindle every week when I sat down to pay the bills. I had reduced my library shifts to eight hours a week — fourteen dollars and eighty cents a week after taxes. It wasn’t enough to cover the feed. I was burning savings, and I knew it, and every morning when I walked the bank I was walking the line between a viable operation and a slow-motion bankruptcy.
June came, and the heat came with it. By late June, the Delta sun was hammering the pond surface at ninety-five degrees by noon, and the dissolved oxygen would sink to four parts per million or lower in the hot afternoons. I had the paddlewheel aerator running sixteen hours a day. I had no backup. If the aerator failed, the fish would suffocate within a night. I lay awake listening to it through the open bedroom window, that steady churning sound, and if it ever hiccupped I was out of bed and pulling on my boots before I was fully awake.
In early July, I found the first fish with white spots on its gills.
I didn’t know what it was. I stood on the bank with the dying fish in my hand, and I felt the cold fist tighten again. I had read about parasites, but recognizing a parasite in a publication illustration and recognizing it on a wet gasping fingerling in your own hand are two different forms of knowledge. I called the Mississippi State Extension office from the phone in the kitchen, my finger shaking a little as I dialed, and I asked for someone who knew catfish. They transferred me three times. On the third transfer, a man picked up and said, “This is Dr. Calvin Whitlock. You’ve got a catfish problem?”
I told him about the white spots. He asked about my water parameters. I read him the numbers from the green notebook for the past two weeks — every morning, every afternoon, dissolved oxygen, ammonia, nitrites, pH. He was quiet for a moment.
— Mrs. Trigg, have you been keeping these records every day?
— Yes.
— Since stocking?
— Yes, sir. Since March fourteenth.
There was another silence. Then he said, “I’m going to drive down this Saturday. No charge. I want to see your pond.”
Dr. Whitlock arrived at seven in the morning on the hottest Saturday of the summer. He was fifty-three years old, lean and gray-haired, with the kind of careful eyes that miss nothing. He spent six hours on my farm. He walked every foot of the pond bank. He looked at my aeration schedule. He looked at my feeding records. He looked at the sketch maps I had drawn of the pond bottom, with depth contours marked at one-foot intervals, based on weighted line measurements I had taken by myself over four Saturday mornings the previous February. He looked at the green spiral notebook for a long, long time.
We stood on the eastern bank in the late afternoon, watching the catfish rise for the second feeding. He didn’t speak for a while.
— Mrs. Trigg, this is the cleanest small operation I have ever seen in this state. Most of the commercial operations in Sunflower County are not keeping records this good.
I didn’t know what to say. I thanked him. I walked him to his truck. He drove away without charging me a cent, and he came back twice in 1984 and three times in 1985. Always at no charge. Always on his own initiative. He became, over the next three years, the second man in Sunflower County besides my ex-husband Curtis to fully understand what I was building, and the only one who had understood it from the start without reservation.
The parasite outbreak cost me another eight percent of the fingerlings before I finally got it under control. By the autumn of 1983, the surviving fish were averaging three-quarters of a pound. The pond was holding stable water chemistry. Sadi had memorized every step of the feeding routine and could broadcast feed from the dock as well as I could. The operation was not yet profitable. It was not yet anything beyond a four-acre pond with surviving fish. But the surviving fish were on track to produce approximately seven thousand pounds of harvest-ready catfish by the autumn of 1984, and I had done a very simple piece of arithmetic in the green notebook: seven thousand pounds at sixty-eight to seventy-two cents per pound, minus operating costs, netted somewhere around three thousand dollars. It wasn’t a fortune. It was the first profit I would have earned from this land in my entire life.
The men at the Texaco did not know any of this. They continued, throughout 1983 and into 1984, to refer to me as “the Trigg woman with the catfish problem” when they referred to me at all. The cotton harvest was poor that year. Soybean prices were falling below break-even. Foreclosures were starting to ripple through Sunflower County the way they were rippling through every farming community in the rural South. The men on the bench had bigger things to worry about than a four-acre pond owned by a divorced woman. They weren’t paying attention. And I was counting on that.
The spring of 1984 came, and my fish were averaging a pound and a half. I did my first partial harvest in early June. I had bought a small seine net in Belzoni for a hundred and eighty dollars, and I had hired a nineteen-year-old farmhand named Demetrius Hollaway to help me pull it. Demetrius was the son of Erlene Hollaway, who lived two miles east in a rented farmhouse. He had heard from his mother that Mrs. Trigg’s pond was producing fish, and he had come knocking on my door in May asking for work. I hired him at four dollars and twenty-five cents an hour — fifty cents above minimum wage — on the condition that he learn every aspect of the operation, not just the heavy lifting. He agreed. He worked twelve hours a week that summer, and by August he was running the morning water tests as well as I was.
That first partial harvest in June brought in eleven hundred pounds of catfish. I sold them to the local processor in Belzoni at sixty-eight cents a pound for a total of seven hundred forty-eight dollars. I did a second partial harvest in late August — fourteen hundred pounds at seventy-two cents a pound, a thousand and eight dollars. The full harvest was scheduled for late October. I was projecting another forty-five hundred pounds. My math, scrawled on a fresh page of the green notebook, projected total gross revenue for 1984 at somewhere between four thousand eight hundred and five thousand dollars, against operating costs of roughly two thousand four hundred, for a net of about twenty-five hundred dollars. It was a viable small farm enterprise. It was not yet transformative. The transformation was coming from a direction I couldn’t yet see.
In October of 1984, a Mississippi catfish industry trade group called the Catfish Farmers of America finalized a major contract with a regional grocery chain headquartered in Memphis named Liberty Foods. The contract specified that Liberty Foods would purchase eight million pounds of fresh whole channel catfish in 1985, and the delivery requirements exceeded the combined production capacity of the eight largest Mississippi operations. The deficit would have to be filled by smaller producers across the four-state catfish region. The trade group’s pricing committee set the wholesale price for 1985 institutional-grade catfish at a dollar twenty-six a pound — almost double what I had been getting from the local Belzoni processor.
I didn’t learn about the Liberty Foods contract directly. Nobody called me. I was a tiny operation south of Indianola, invisible to the trade groups, invisible to the big buyers. The way I learned about the contract was indirect and came in the form of a man named Vernon Moresy, a fish wholesaler from Atlanta, who pulled into my driveway on a cold Tuesday morning in February of 1985.
I was in the equipment shed, welding a section of sheet steel onto the frame of what was going to become my custom hauling tank. I had the welding helmet down, the arc bright and buzzing, and I didn’t see him pull up. I heard the door of his sedan close, and I lifted the helmet. He was standing at the edge of the shed, a lean forty-nine-year-old man in a neat jacket and polished shoes that were already getting red-clay dust on them. He didn’t flinch at the sight of a woman in a welding helmet.
— Mrs. Trigg?
— Yes.
— My name is Vernon Moresy. I am a wholesale fish distributor from Atlanta. I have an institutional contract starting in March that requires fifteen hundred to two thousand pounds of fresh channel catfish per delivery on a six-week cycle. My existing Mississippi suppliers have been absorbed into a larger contract and cannot fill my order. I have driven down here looking for small producers who might have available capacity. The Belzoni processor recommended you.
I set down the welding torch. I pulled off my gloves. I had been selling small loads through the Belzoni processor at sixty-eight to seventy-two cents a pound for nine months. He had been a good buyer, trustworthy. If he had recommended me, he had done so knowing it would cost him my business.
— Mr. Moresy, what are you offering?
— A dollar ten per pound, fresh whole live, delivered to my Atlanta dock. Six-week delivery cycles starting March fifteenth. I will commit to twelve months of standing orders if your fish meet quality specifications on the first delivery.
I did the math in my head. A dollar ten was fifty-six percent higher than the seventy cents I had been getting locally. Two-thousand-pound deliveries every six weeks for a year would total roughly seventeen thousand pounds. Gross revenue of approximately eighteen thousand seven hundred dollars across the contract year.
— Mr. Moresy, I need three days to consider this.
— Take three days.
He left his card on the workbench. He drove back to Atlanta. I walked into the farmhouse that evening and sat at the kitchen table with the green spiral notebook in front of me. Sadi was ten now. She had grown three inches in the past year. She did her homework at the same table, and she watched me for a long moment.
— Mama, was that man asking about the fish?
— He was.
— What did he say?
— He wants to buy two thousand pounds every six weeks for a year.
Sadi was quiet for a moment. She was old enough now to understand the scale of what that meant.
— That is a lot of fish.
— It is.
— Can we do it?
I looked at my ten-year-old daughter. I thought about the four-acre pond outside, the production capacity I had been building for twenty-two months. I thought about Demetrius, who could probably move from twelve hours a week to twenty-five if I needed him. I thought about the savings account, which now held approximately forty-eight hundred dollars. I thought about the welder in the shed and the sheet steel and the prototype hauling tank I had been building for three weekends.
— We can do it, Sadie.
I called Vernon Moresy three days later. I accepted the contract. The first delivery was scheduled for March fifteenth, 1985. Demetrius and I spent the next twenty-three days finishing the custom hauling tank in the equipment shed. It was a sheet-steel rectangular vessel mounted on the bed of the 1979 Chevrolet flatbed, with internal aeration powered by a battery-driven pump system and a water capacity of two hundred forty gallons. I had designed it by combining specifications from three different Mississippi State publications. I welded it myself, with Demetrius assisting on the heavier sheets. The total cost of materials was seven hundred twenty dollars. I paid for it out of the savings account, and I didn’t sleep much during those twenty-three days.
That first delivery was thirteen hundred and forty pounds of fresh channel catfish, averaging two and a quarter pounds per fish. We harvested at sunrise the morning of the delivery, the pond surface pink and silver in the first light, the fish thrashing in the seine net. Demetrius and I hauled them to the tank one by one, careful, quick. I transported them to Atlanta in oxygenated water, driving alone through the long stretch of Alabama, checking the aeration pump at every gas stop. I lost six fish out of approximately eight hundred.
Vernon Moresy weighed the load at his Atlanta receiving dock. He walked around the tank. He looked at the fish. He looked at me. Then he wrote a check for two thousand twenty-four dollars, handed it to me at the loading bay, and told me the delivery exceeded his quality specifications. He extended the contract for an additional six months on the spot.
I drove home with a check in my pocket that was more money than I had earned in any single transaction in my entire life. I let myself feel it for about thirty seconds somewhere outside Montgomery, and then I started planning the next harvest.
The April 1985 delivery, the one that opens this story, was twenty-one hundred pounds valued at two thousand three hundred ten dollars. The May delivery was twenty-two hundred pounds, two thousand four hundred twenty dollars. By June, I had delivered approximately eighty-four hundred pounds of catfish to Atlanta and had grossed over nine thousand dollars across four deliveries. The operation was no longer a side project. It was a functioning commercial enterprise, and the community in Sunflower County was beginning, in that spring of 1985, to notice.
The first sign of the community’s noticing was the silence at the Texaco filling station.
Buford Hollis stopped telling the story. He stopped telling it sometime in April, when he heard from Erlene Hollaway — Demetrius’s mother, who was now telling everyone within earshot — that the Trigg pond was producing eight times the volume of any small operation in the county and that an Atlanta wholesaler was paying significantly above the local market rate. Buford didn’t say anything in particular about it. He just stopped laughing. The story disappeared from his rotation, and when anyone brought up my name he would go quiet and study his coffee cup as if there were tea leaves at the bottom.
The second sign was the conversation Wendell Ashmore had with Dr. Lawrence Picket one Wednesday morning in May of 1985. The two men who had walked over to my truck in March of ’83 were sitting on the same bench where they had laughed for forty-five seconds. Wendell was sixty by then. Dr. Picket was forty-nine. They had been quiet for a while that morning, both staring at the highway in a way that had nothing to do with the scenery.
— Wendell, the Trigg woman.
— Yes. I owe her a conversation.
— I expect you do.
— So do you.
— I expect I do.
They were quiet for a long time, drinking their coffee. Then Wendell said, “Do you remember what we said to her that morning?”
“I remember every word,” said Dr. Picket. “We laughed at her.”
“We did. We had no business laughing at her.”
“We did not.”
Dr. Picket took a slow drink of his coffee and set the cup down. “The thing is, Wendell, I knew that morning. I knew before I walked over to that truck. I told her about thermal stratification and dissolved oxygen, and I knew the second I started talking that she had already done the reading. I could see it in her face. She did not need me to explain anything to her, and I laughed anyway.”
“So did I,” said Wendell.
Wendell drove out to my farm that Saturday morning. He arrived without an appointment, the way Vernon Moresy had arrived three months earlier. He stood in the driveway for ten minutes before I came out of the farmhouse. When he saw me, he took off his cap and held it in his hands. He looked past me toward the pond, which was visible through the stand of pecan trees, its surface glinting in the mid-morning sun.
— Mrs. Trigg.
— Wendell.
— I drove here this morning to apologize for what I did at the Texaco in March of 1983. The thing about laughing at the fingerlings in the back of your truck. I do not want to soften it or qualify it. I want to apologize. I had no business laughing. I knew it then. I have known it more clearly every month since.
I was quiet. I hadn’t been expecting Wendell at my driveway. I hadn’t been expecting an apology. I didn’t know what to do with it exactly, but I also didn’t need to know what to do with it.
— Wendell, you did not have to drive out here.
— I had to drive out here.
He paused and looked at the ground, then back at me.
— Hazel, can I ask you a question?
— Yes.
— Where did you learn this?
I looked at him for a moment. I hadn’t told anyone the full story — not Curtis when we were still married, not Dr. Whitlock when he had asked, not Vernon Moresy when I signed the contract. I had read three Mississippi State publications and a stack of journal articles borrowed by inter-library loan from the University of Mississippi library system. I had calculated my own pond depth contours. I had built my own infrastructure. I had figured out the parasites by trial and error. I had not had a mentor. I had simply needed an income stream after the divorce, and I had looked at the four-acre pond on the property I had taken in the settlement, and I had reasoned my way from there to a viable small commercial catfish operation across twenty-two months of careful work.
I didn’t want to tell Wendell the full truth. The truth was a private answer. But I didn’t want to lie either, so I gave him a partial one.
— I read the Mississippi State Extension publications, Wendell. I tested the water every morning at sunrise for two and a half years. The fish told me what they needed.
Wendell nodded. He understood the answer was incomplete. He also understood it was complete enough. He thanked me. He drove home. He did not mention the conversation to Buford Hollis or to anyone else at the Texaco. He simply stopped participating in any conversation in which the catfish operation was discussed dismissively.
Dr. Lawrence Picket never apologized in person. He could not bring himself to. He died in 1992 of a heart attack at age fifty-six, and when his wife Maryanne was cleaning out his desk after the funeral, she found a sealed envelope addressed to me in his handwriting. She drove the envelope to my farm a week after the funeral.
I opened the envelope at the kitchen table. It contained a one-page letter dated March 1985, two months after the Atlanta contract had begun. Dr. Picket had written it and never mailed it. I read:
“Mrs. Trigg,
I owe you an apology that I am not yet able to deliver in person. I knew that morning at the Texaco that you knew exactly what you were doing. I laughed because the men around me were laughing. That is the only honest reason I have. I have been ashamed of it for two years. I have driven past your pond four times in the last six months. The work you have done is more careful than any commercial catfish operation in this county. I want you to know that I know that. I want you to know that the laugh was the worst thing I have done in my professional life and that I have not laughed at any other woman doing serious work since that morning.
Dr. Lawrence Picket.”
I read the letter twice. I couldn’t respond, because there was no one to respond to. I kept the letter in the green spiral notebook in the kitchen drawer, folded between the pages where I had recorded the morning water tests in the summer of 1983.
The operation grew. By autumn of 1985, we were producing approximately twenty-eight thousand pounds of catfish annually. I leased a second four-acre pond from a neighbor named Earl Hadley for a hundred and eighty dollars a year. I hired Demetrius full-time at seven-fifty an hour. I purchased a used commercial-grade aerator for the second pond and expanded the custom hauling tank to four-hundred-gallon capacity. The Atlanta contract continued through 1986, then expanded in 1987 when Vernon added two more restaurant clients to his route. By 1988, I was supplying approximately fifty-two thousand pounds annually at an average price of a dollar eighteen per pound. By 1990, it was eighty-four thousand pounds at a dollar thirty-two per pound, and the operation was generating over a hundred and eleven thousand dollars in annual gross revenue.
The farm itself had been converted entirely to aquaculture. The original four-acre pond had been expanded to six acres. Two additional ponds were excavated on the eastern part of the property in 1987 and 1988. The total water surface area was now eighteen acres, and we were approaching a hundred thousand pounds of annual production. I was forty-five years old. Sadi was fifteen and could run the entire morning water-testing routine and handle the harvest seine as well as any commercial operator in the county. Demetrius had taken over operational management and was earning forty-two thousand dollars a year as my general manager.
And then, in June of 1991, Curtis Trigg pulled into my gravel driveway.
He had divorced Bonnie in 1989 and had remained single since. He had quit the cotton gin and started a small carpentry business out of a shed behind the rented house he had moved into after the second divorce. He had not spoken to me since our own divorce in 1982. Nine years. And now he was sitting in his truck in my driveway at four in the afternoon on a Saturday, staring at the farmhouse.
I saw him from the kitchen window. I did not go out. I waited. Eventually he got out, walked to the porch, and knocked. I opened the door.
— Curtis.
— Hazel.
He had aged. He was forty-nine, thinner than I remembered, tired in a way that had nothing to do with physical work. He stood in my living room and refused the coffee I offered him. He looked at me for a long time before he spoke.
— Hazel, I owe you an apology. I am not here to ask for anything. I am not here to be friends again. I am not here to talk about Sadi, although I would like to see her if she would let me. I am here only to apologize. I knew when you bought those fingerlings in March of 1983 that you were doing exactly what you said you were doing. I knew the pond was not dead. I knew the spring under it had not shifted. I had spent three Saturdays in 1981 watching that pond myself. I knew the recovery was happening. I told you it was finished because I wanted it to be finished. I wanted you to give up on the property. I wanted the divorce settlement to take everything from you because I wanted the punishment that comes with separating myself from a woman like you. I have spent nine years thinking about what I told you about that pond. I have spent nine years knowing that I lied. I am sitting in your living room today because I do not want to die without saying it out loud. I lied about the pond, Hazel. I lied about a great many things. I am sorry. The thing you have built on this land in the years since I left is what you would have built with me too if I had been a different kind of man.
I was quiet for a long time. I had assumed, somewhere in the second year of the operation, that Curtis had probably known the pond was viable. I had filed that knowledge away the way a woman files away knowledge of a husband’s many small dishonesties. I had not been waiting for the apology, but I had also not been pretending the dishonesty had not existed.
— Curtis.
— Yes, Hazel.
— Thank you for saying it. I do not need anything from you. I do not need this conversation to continue. Sadi will see you when she is ready, and you will need to wait for that decision to be hers. The pond was always going to come back. I knew that the year you told me it was finished. We both lied to each other for thirteen years before we admitted it. I forgive you for the pond. I do not yet forgive you for the rest, but I am willing to be in the same room with you again when Sadi wants me to be.
Curtis nodded. He stood. He walked to the door. He turned.
— The operation looks good, Hazel. It is the best thing in this county. I am proud of you for it. I have no right to be proud, but I am.
I did not respond. I watched him walk to his truck. I watched him drive away. I did not cry. I had finished crying about Curtis Trigg in 1982. I walked back to the kitchen and sat at the table with the green spiral notebook in front of me, the same notebook I had been keeping since March of 1983. I turned to the next blank page. I wrote, “Curtis came today, apologized for the pond.” Then I closed the notebook and went outside to walk the eastern banks, where the second pond was just beginning the morning’s stratification cycle, and the sun was hitting the water at the angle it hits in late June afternoons in the Mississippi Delta, and the catfish were rising and breaking the surface in the slow rhythmic pattern that meant the operation was running exactly as I had built it to run.
I continued to operate the farm through 2014. By that year I was sixty-nine years old. The operation had grown to forty-two acres of pond surface area, employed eleven people, and was producing approximately three hundred eighty thousand pounds of catfish annually. Demetrius Hollaway had been my general manager for twenty-five years. Sadi, who was thirty-nine by then, had taken over daily operations management in 2010 after returning to Sunflower County from a fifteen-year career in agricultural extension work in Tennessee and Alabama. The operation was now legally registered as Trigg Family Aquaculture, with Sadi listed as the primary operator and me as the founding partner.
Sadi had married a Mississippi State University aquaculture professor named David Whitlock in 2002. David Whitlock was the son of Dr. Calvin Whitlock, the extension agent who had driven down to consult with me in July of 1983. David and Sadi had two children: a son named Curtis Whitlock Trigg, born in 2005, and a daughter named Hazel Whitlock, born in 2008. My grandson Curtis was nineteen in 2024. My granddaughter Hazel was sixteen. Both children had been raised on the farm. Both had been working the morning water tests since they were old enough to read the test kit colorimetric strips.
I walked the eastern banks of the original four-acre pond every morning at five-thirty until the spring of 2024, sometimes with my granddaughter Hazel, sometimes alone, always with the same cup of black coffee I had carried out to that pond every morning for forty-one years. I never gave interviews. I was asked many times — by Mississippi agricultural publications, by one regional television station — to tell the story of how I had built the operation. I declined each time. I didn’t believe the story was useful in the form a publication would want it. The publications wanted the moment of decision, the moment of vindication, the moment when the men who had laughed were forced to acknowledge their wrongness. Those moments existed in my history. But the moments that mattered were not those moments.
The moments that mattered were the five-thirty morning water tests on April mornings when the water temperature was sixty-four degrees and the dissolved oxygen was holding at six-point-two parts per million. The afternoon feed broadcasts at five, when the catfish would gather at the dock the way catfish gather, their dark backs rolling just below the surface. The Saturday afternoons when Sadi was eleven and we had cleaned out the same net together at the equipment shed sink. The Tuesday morning in July of 1983 when Dr. Calvin Whitlock had walked the pond with me for six hours and told me at the end of the consultation that I was running the cleanest small operation he had ever seen. The Friday in March of 1985 when Vernon Moresy had walked into my equipment shed and asked if I could deliver fifteen hundred pounds every six weeks.
Those were the moments. The vindication moments that came later were only the public visible records of a private invisible work that had been happening every single day at the pond for almost half a century.
Sadi, who is now fifty in 2025, sits sometimes at the same kitchen table where I sat with the green spiral notebook in 1983, where I wrote the entry about Curtis’s apology in 1991, where I kept the unmailed letter from Dr. Lawrence Picket. She reads through my entries. She has read them dozens of times. She still finds new things in them. She finds, for example, that I had written down in March of 1983 the exact number of fingerlings I had purchased, the exact pH of the pond water on the morning of stocking, and the exact weight of feed I had broadcast on the first afternoon.
I kept those records every day for forty-one years. The records fill seventy-three notebooks now, stored in a wooden cabinet in the office of the equipment shed where I welded the first hauling tank. The lesson I passed to my daughter Sadi — and that Sadi has been passing to her own daughter Hazel and her son Curtis — has not been about catfish. It has not been about the pond. It has been about something more ordinary and more difficult. It has been about the morning water tests. It has been about the daily five-thirty walk to the eastern bank. It has been about the green spiral notebook and the discipline of writing the day’s observations in it before going to bed.
The lesson has been that the work, when it is done correctly and continuously, will produce its own result. That the result does not need to be defended against the men at the Texaco filling station, because the work will eventually arrive at the men’s own door. It will arrive in the form of fish in the pond. It will arrive in the form of contracts from Atlanta. It will arrive in the form of the apology that Curtis Trigg drove out to deliver in June of 1991. It will arrive in the form of the unmailed letter from Dr. Lawrence Picket that found me in 1992.
The work arrives. The men who laughed do not have to be answered. The work answers them.
That has been the lesson. And I gave it to Sadi not in a speech, not in an interview, not even in a single conversation, but in forty-one consecutive years of walking out to the eastern bank of a four-acre pond at five-thirty every morning with a cup of black coffee in my hand, while the rest of Sunflower County continued — as Sunflower County had always continued — to laugh at the things it did not understand, until the day the laughter stopped on its own, replaced by the sound of water and feeding fish and the quiet of a pond that had never been dead, only waiting.
